As someone who grew up in this city, I’m familiar with what you think you know about it: it’s dull, it’s cold, everybody talks about money, there is no subculture, no real nightlife, and why aren’t you in Berlin already ? Let me stop you there. First, we are a good-humoured, friendly bunch, who are interested in getting things done without being pretentious about it. That’s why there are always new places popping up. The Museum of Romanticism is being built right next to the poet Goethe’s birthplace and is due to open in early 2020. The Altstadt, the old town destroyed in the second world war, is being reconstructed – not as a Disney fantasy but as a modern version of its former self Neighbourhoods are changing fast. Most famously, the once druggy and seedy Bahnhofsviertel area around the train station has cemented its reputation as one of the city’s most interesting places, with new restaurants, galleries and clubs. In the industrial east end, the Marriott hotel chain has opened a third Moxy hotel near the new European Central Bank. But the city really comes into its own in summer, when everyone chills on the banks of the river Main, drinking Ebbelwoi (apple wine), cycling, skating, strolling and looking up at the one notable city skyline in Germany. A few more skyscrapers will be added in the near future, thanks to Brexit. But this city has always been open and friendly to outsiders. So, welcome to Frankfurt . Frankfurt has a lot of museums and exhibition spaces for a city of just 730,000 people. There’s the Städel (art spanning seven centuries), the MMK (modern art), the Liebighaus (sculpture), the Schirn (modern and contemporary exhibitions), the Fotografie-Forum, the MFK communication museum, the MAK for design, and so on. But for a primer on Frankfurt history, head to the Historisches Museum, which recently reopened in an elegant new building in Römerberg square, next to the historic townhouses in the heart of the city. The museum gives an overview of Frankfurt’s history and its people through household items, toys, textiles, furniture and paintings, and has a giant interactive snowdome. Palmengarten opened in 1871 spanning 22 hectares (54 acres) with formal gardens and a palm house, displaying plants from climate zones such as the monsoon forest, sub-arctic and desert. On summer evenings, the garden serves as a concert venue with a focus on jazz and world music. The Palmengarten also hosts a two-star Michelin restaurant, the Lafleur (three-course lunch from €52), in the Bauhaus-style clubhouse. The Ebbelwei Express is charmingly old-fashioned and a lot of fun. It’s a psychedelically painted 1970s tram that circles the city on an hour-long loop every weekend, taking in sights such as the city zoo, the historic Römerberg and Willy-Brandt-Platz in the banking district. Ebbelwoi is the local cider and you take the tour with a bottle in hand, munching on pretzels (both included with ticket) and listening to strange German pub music. In the heart of the city is the Kleinmarkthalle, where Frankfurters come to shop. It’s not the prettiest building but the quality is first rate – everything from local sausages and bread to handmade ravioli and excellent sushi. The best hot wurst in a bun is served by market veteran Ilse Schreiber, following an old family recipe – you’ll know it’s her from the long queue leading to her stall. Up on the balcony, the Rollanderhof wine bar gets busy as a popular after-work drinks spot,This eye-opening tour brings visitors to meet the old masters and tailors of traditional handicrafts in and learn about their stories.
